Folks, you just can’t keep me away from Kibuye. On Friday after work I ran walked calmly to my waiting taxi to meet up with Scott at the Nyabugogo bus station (wait, doesn’t this sound familiar?). When I arrived at the jam packed bus station I made my way to the bus, got my ticket from Scott, jumped on the bus to take the last two seats, and within a minute we were on our way. Perfect timing! This time I managed to snap a blurry shot from my seat at the back of the bus. Blurry pictures are the worst, but sometimes it’s more important to share a visual, isn’t it?

IMG_0230You can see from this photo that the bus doesn’t have an aisle at all. It does, but as the bus fills up the aisle seat is dropped down. Those aisle seats are the worst – super uncomfortable.

After arriving in Kibuye around 5:30pm, we dropped our bags at our rooms and then headed down to check out New Chiaz Bar, which is a pretty awesome local bar with cold beer and good grilled meat. Afterwards we decided to check out Best Nightclub. Yup, it really is called Best Nightclub. I mandated that we go there due to their fancy-creative name, and we were rewarded by some AWESOME music and a good local scene.

I have to pause this blog post right now and tell you that I’m really really sick. This week has been mildly unmanageable because I haven’t had a wink of sleep, am congested, and my work obligations haven’t let up. So right now I’m pretty exhausted and sort of unable to turn my perfect weekend into an enthralling blog post. I might let the pictures do the talking because I’m going to fall asleep in T-20 seconds and counting.

Because it really was an awesome weekend. Night fishing was my entire reason for going, but once we got to Kibuye we found out that August 1st was the one night a year when no fishing is allowed. Whyyyyyyyyyy?!?!

We more than made up for our night-fishing woes by renting motos by day and a boat by night. And of course I started the morning early with a well-balanced breakfast of omelet and a fruit plate that I was apparently allergic to due to the tingling in my mouth/throat. Yes I kept eating.IMG_0241

After we rented motos, we drove them on what we thought would be a rural road, but ended up being a road in the midst of Chinese construction.


I wasn’t a huge fan of the dirt and dust everywhere, and was even less a fan of the scar gouged out of the side of Rwanda’s hills, but I will admit that this view gave me pause.IMG_0267The scar may not be pretty, but the past is, and I can always marvel at a piece of geology that was once lying just beneath the surface.

After an hour or so on the road, we stopped at a little bar/shack for a fanta. The locals sitting outside enjoying their refreshments were pretty intrigued by our mzungu selves rolling in to their establishment, but we said howdy and accepted the Cokes that were brought our way. My hair was a MESS after being hidden under a helmet, so I tried to slyly whip it into shape until I realized that the women at the bar were laughing at me and taking photos with their phones. Ha! Only one man in the place spoke English, and he started SHOUTING pleasantries at us. It wasn’t until Scott started responding in an equally loud tone that he reduced his decibel level. He kept telling us “don’t worry, you are safe here,” which was mildly creepy because I haven’t worried since I’ve been in Rwanda, and also because more and more and more people started showing up at the bar to surround us. Awkward city. Did we chug our cokes and say goodbye pretty quick? Yes.

Scott picked up a guy who wanted a ride back to Kibuye, which really cracked people up. You NEVER see a Rwandan riding on the back of a moto being driven by a mzungu, so it was entertaining for all. See the guys laughing at the sight??


But oh, isn’t Rwanda beautiful? Pictures don’t do it justice…IMG_1925Naturally after our hard work moto-ing around the countryside we had to stop at Chiaz Bar for a cold beverage.

IMG_0274And after a day in the sun, we decided to spend the evening on the water. There is an island very near Kibuye where a bunch of bats live, and we rented a boat to take us to Napoleon Island to see them.

But FIRST, we stopped off at a little bar that sold homemade banana beer. For 200 francs we filled up an empty water bottle… I can see where it could be good, but this batch went wrong and a sip was enough for me. Thank goodness we also had a tiny bottle of whiskey for our boat ride!!


IMG_0279 IMG_0281The evening was perfect, beautiful, serene and surreal. At one point the water and the sky matched each other in color.


IMG_1938On our way to Napoleon Island to see the bats, we saw a tiny island that was screaming for attention. Olivier told us “it’s too small!!” but we needed to step foot on it anyway.

IMG_0287This is where he said: “ok now I am leaving you.”

IMG_0295And then… he did.IMG_0298

IMG_1964When we were back on the boat and on our way, night quickly fell. As we approached Napoleon Island we could see and hear bats by the thousands. I really couldn’t get any photos, but the bats were EVERYWHERE.IMG_0326 IMG_1968Olivier let me captain the boat back through the peaceful waters of Lake Kivu – perfect ending to the perfect day…

And perhaps some other day I’ll tell you the story of how Scott and I both ran out of money on Sunday, how three ATMs were broken in Kibuye, and how – through the kindness of the Capitol Bus ticket seller – I was able to sell the MTN airtime in my wallet to afford bus tickets to get Scott and I back to Kigali in one piece. It really is a good story, but I’m so tired, and so sick, and will have to tell you about another time.

Good night friends,